A 6:45 start was far from ideal; the streets were crowded with people and, thanks to China's one time zone policy, the sun was already high in the sky, pushing the garish neon thermometer on Nanjing Dong Lu past 30C. On the bright side, the tai chi practitioners, badminton players, and dancers (fan, salsa, and tango) made for nice scenery. Dodging trucks, taxis, scooters, bikes, and push carts is good cross-training anyway, right? The ultimate silver lining: every footfall reminded me of the fresh-baked baguette from Bread Talk that I would have for my post-run breakfast.
When I reached the end of Nanjing Lu, the sun glinted off the shiny towers in Pudong and baked the pavement under my feet, but the open expanse of the Huangpu River rewarded me with a cooling breeze, which held aloft colorful kites shaped like birds, dragons, and fighter jets. I turned around at the anachronistic Peoples' Heroes Monument and took in the graceful curve of the Bund, adorned with charming, neoclassical reminders of the British settlement.
Making my way back down the pedestrian stretch of Nanjing Lu, things are starting to pick up, including the temperature. The twin spires of Shimao Plaza beckon through the haze, and all I can think of is how much I'm sweating and how good my baguette will taste (hopefully with some iced milk tea if I play my cards right). As I approach the atrium of the megamall at the tower's base, however, something is not right. The bakery lights are still off! It's 7:30am? How is a bakery supposed to stay in business if it's not open by 7:30? Not only was it not open, but no one was there, including the legion of bakers that was humming along last time I visited at 8pm. Looks like my fresh bread hopes are dashed again. Oh well. Greasy, delicious street food breakfast it is. A sesame ball with red bean paste and a slice of
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